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My first book on Sikkim: Gangtokey Gondogol

Gangtokey Gondogol (Trouble in Gangtok) is a novella by Satyajit Ray featuring the private detective Feluda. It first appeared in a magazine Desh in 1970 and then in book form in 1971 by Ananda Publishers. The English translation is by Gopa Majumdar, Puffin books, in 2004.


Feluda is Prodosh Chandra Mitra, the main character of the story, he is always accompanied by his cousin Topshe or Tapesh Ranjan Mitra. The story starts on the 14th April, Feluda and Topshe are flying to Bagdogra. They see a man on the next seat who is reading The Statesman. Feluda asks Topshe to say where the man is from, and Topshe says a man in a suit reading an English newspaper can be from anywhere. Feluda points out the man’s gold ring, with Ma written on it in Bengali, showing that he is a Bengali. At the airport cafeteria, the man meets them and introduces himself as Sasadhar Bose, working for a chemical firm dealing in perfumes made from aromatic plants. He had attended a nephew's wedding in Ghatshila and come to Sikkim to meet his partner. They reserve a jeep for Gangtok. Drinking coca cola at Teesta Bazaar, they hear of an accident on North Sikkim Highway, a taxi fell into the valley after being hit by a huge boulder. The driver escaped unhurt; the sole passenger died. Feluda and Topshe get down at Hotel Snow View while Bose goes to dak bungalow.

Bose comes to Feluda's hotel that evening to inform him that the man who fell down the cliff was his partner Shivkumar Shelvankar, also the owner of the company. The tragedy occurred on the 11th. Bose decides to take a flight to Bombay next day. Feluda and Topshe meet a Bengali gentleman in the hotel, Nishikanto Sarkar. He had a statue of Tibetan God Yamantak, with nine heads and 34 hands which he sold to Shelvankar for Rs 1000/-. Feluda and Topshe go out for a walk.  They meet Helmut Ungar, a hippie in very colourful clothes, who tells them more about Shelvankar. He had a son, whom he loved, but had run away from home. Shelvankar kept Yamantak in his breast pocket, considering it a lucky charm. This superstition came from the advice of Dr. Vaidya, who stayed with them in Dak Bungalow. Vaidya had impressed Helmut as a very interesting person who could bring down departed souls and predict the future. Shelvankar and Ungar had decided to travel together to a gumpha on the way to Singhik. Helmut changed his mind and left early to take some photographs. The accident occurred that day. The statue was never found.

That evening, Feluda and Topshe take a taxi to Namgyal Institute of Tibetology, to learn about the statue. Feluda asks the taxi driver to come next morning to take him to the accident site. The institute curator declares that Yamantak which Shelvankar had should cost above Rs 10,000/-. Another person also came to inquire about the same statue, but he could not recall who it was. Nishikanto tells Feluda that night that there is a lama dance next afternoon at Rumtek.

Feluda and Topshe have this conversation that night.

‘Just imagine,’ Feluda said, staring at the ceiling, ‘what do you suppose we’d have done if a criminal had nine heads? No one could possibly sneak up to him and catch him from behind!’

‘And thirty-four arms? What about those?’

‘Yes, we’d have had to use seventeen pairs of handcuffs to arrest him!’

Next morning, Nishikanto shows Feluda a piece of paper left in his room during the night. The paper had a single Tibetan word. Feluda and Topshe travel to the accident site, Feluda finds a white button. He also finds that someone had levered a boulder by using a strong rod, so the accident is a well-planned murder. Feluda telegrams Bose asking him to return to Gangtok. He asks for a copy of a telegram received by Shelvankar which says, “YOUR SON MAY BE IS A SICK MONSTER – Pritex.” Nishikanto meanwhile finds out that the word on the note is in Tibetan and it means death.

Here is a description of the morning.

I woke at 6.30 a.m. the next morning, to find that the rain had stopped and there was not a single cloud in the sky. The sun shone brightly on the world, and behind the range of mountains, now easily visible from our room, stood Kanchenjunga. The view from here was different from that in Darjeeling, but it was still unmistakably the same Kanchenjunga, standing apart from all the other mountains—proud, majestic and beautiful.

Nishikanto, Helmut, Feluda and Topshe go to Rumtek after lunch. There is a vivid description of the road, the maize fields around and the monastery. While watching the colourful dances, Feluda suddenly realises that SICK MONSTER means Sikkim Monastery. They hear someone shout for help and rush. They find Nishikanto holding to a bush for dear life. Someone has pushed him from behind. Back in Gangtok, Helmut invites them for tea at dak bungalow. They meet a man in orange jacket and loose pants with a walking stick, Helmut introduces him as Dr. Vaidya.

Vaidya invokes Shelvankar's spirit, who says that he was actually murdered and Virendra is responsible for it. Helmut tells that Virendra is Shelvankar's son. Vaidya tells Feluda that tomorrow he will go to Pemayangtse Monastery. Next morning, Topshe finds a small note near Feluda's ashtray. The note has the same Tibetan word, death. Feluda and Topshe leave early and walk up to a secluded spot on the North Sikkim highway to conduct an experiment. They drop boulders from above to see if one can hit a moving car, but they cannot even hit a walking man. Feluda concludes that first Shelvankar was hit by a rod and then the vehicle was pushed down the cliff. A boulder was thrown later to get an accident like look. While Feluda was telling this, a boulder came crashing down, Topshe pulled Feluda out of its way.

That evening, Helmut came to Feluda's room to show two photographs taken during the crime. He had sent the film to Darjeeling for printing and had got the copies this morning. A man wearing red clothes is standing on top of the mountain and seeing the car fall. This confirms the results of Feluda’s experiment. When Feluda asks if the man is Virendra, Helmut says that it is impossible because he is Virendra. He says that he did not like his father marrying again and ran away. His father approached a detective agency to find him. Virendra came to Sikkim recently. He suspects Vaidya to be the murderer. They decide to go to Pemayangtse to apprehend Vaidya. They also rope in Nishikanto.

They start for Pemayangtse next morning, taking the route via Namchi and Naya Bazar, as the shorter way via Kuching is in a bad shape. There is no mention of Jorethang, because the town was not there at that time. They stop to fill cold water in the jeep and hot coffee inside them. They see the Rangeet river, with cleaner and greenish water. Bose follows them in another jeep, finally they all get into the same vehicle. Bose’s jeep follows with their luggage. They reach Pemayangtse in the early evening. Vaidya had checked out yesterday, but left his stick.

They decide to have their lunch, which they carried. Just before they can start eating, Feluda dramatically announces that Bose killed Shelvankar to take over the ownership of the company. Bose said he was attending his nephew's wedding on the day of the murder. Feluda says that no wedding is held during the Bengali month Chaitra, and they were together in the flight on the first of Baishakh, the very next month. Feluda then says Bose and Vaidya are the same person and asks Bose where is his Ma ring. When Bose tries to explain, Feluda points out that the mark of the ring was there on Vaidya’s finger. Vaidya impressed Shelvankar by telling him about his life, which Bose knew. Vaidya and Shelvankar went in the same jeep for the gumpha. Bose hit Shelvankar with a rod to murder him. Then he and the driver dropped the jeep down and then dropped a stone. Vaidya then came back to Kolkata and, as Sasadhar Bose, travelled in the same plane with Feluda. Vaidya tried to pin the blame on Virendra as he did not know that Helmut was Virendra. When he noticed Feluda was investigating, he tried to kill Feluda by rolling a boulder at him. Bose rushes out and pushes Virendra on the ground. His driver starts the jeep. Two bullets from Feluda’s revolver burst the rear tyres and the jeep stops. Bose tries to run downhill but trips and gets pinned down by leeches. Feluda finds the statue in his belongings. Bose and his driver are arrested by police called in by Feluda’s driver. Feluda returns the statue to Nishikanto with the advice not to sell it again.

The characters are very well portrayed. The dual role of Sasadhar Bose and Dr Vaidya is terrific. While Bose speaks proper Bengali, Vaidya speaks a mix of Bengali, Hindi and English. Also, his way of speaking changes as soon as he starts the séance. The fact that they are the same person, comes at the end, and totally surprises the reader. The book is aimed at high school and early college going students, so the grotesque details of the murder are totally absent.

The story is my first contact with Sikkim and the descriptions of the city and the state are terrific. The state was then an independent kingdom, ruled by the Chogyal. Indian Army trucks and jeeps have been shown all along. The description of the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology is very detailed. The rising mists and sunny mornings are described vividly. Many things have since changed, jeeps have been replaced by Sumos and are again changing to newer vehicles. New roads have been built; more houses have come up. There are hotels all over. Even then, this story does give a person a very good idea of life in and around Gangtok. A must read for all lovers of Sikkim, and for those who love crime and detection stories.

(The author is Associate Professor, Department of Physics, Sikkim University)

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